Symposium:
Transnational Foodways and Food Citizenship Across Türkiye and the Levant
November 29 – November 30, 2024
Hawkers in Adana
Photo: M. Erem Çalıkoğlu
Salt Research, M. Erem Çalıkoğlu Archive
Photo: M. Erem Çalıkoğlu
Salt Research, M. Erem Çalıkoğlu Archive
Salt is hosting an international symposium organized in collaboration between Birkbeck, University of London, Özyeğin University, and CLIMAVORE x Jameel at the Royal College of Art, which will explore the socio-political implications of new foodways in Türkiye and the Levant through the lens of transnational food citizenship.
In line with CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project, the symposium focuses on ecologies, terroirs, and landscapes over state, nationality, and ethnicity as routes into understanding the transfer, adaptation, and appropriation of transnational foodways. It aims to underline the place of distinctive social metabolisms between people and the more-than-human in shaping conceptions of citizenship, belonging, and power about food and drink. The program will also address particular challenges to food citizenship arising from historical changes linked to human migrations and their associated habitats.
This free-admission program will be held in English and is open to everyone.
PROGRAM
Thursday, 28 November
Çamuralem Shop, Şişli, Istanbul
18.00–20.00 Symposium introduction showcasing CLIMAVORE x Jameel at the RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project and guided tasting
Friday, 29 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Changing Food Landscapes: Historical Perspectives
Moderator: İsmail Ertürk
Mike Berlin (Birkbeck, University of London), “Trade, Travel, and Transcultural Exchange: Ottoman and Levantine Foodways in Early Modern London”
Özge Samancı (Özyeğin University), “Culinary Heritage as a Common Denominator in Ottoman Territories: A Short Journey from Past to Present
Zafer Yenal (Sabancı University), “Fragmented Flavors: The Elusive Quest for a National Cuisine in Türkiye”
14.00-16.00 The Country in the City: Rural/Urban Metabolisms
Moderator: Özge Samancı
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University), “Alternatives in Crisis: The Remaking of the Rural in Türkiye”
Alon Schwabe (CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA), “Wallowing in Istanbul’s Postmining Wetland”
Michael Karam (Author), “Lebanese Wine: Unfulfilled Economic Potential, Social Cohesion, and Soft Power”
Zühre Aksoy (Boğaziçi University), “The Making of Rural-Urban Solidarity: Reflections on the Politics of Food in Contemporary Türkiye”
16.30-18.00 Food and the City: A Roundtable Discussion
Moderator: Alex Colás
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University)
Berkan Özyer (Program Director at Greenpeace Mediterranean, Türkiye)
Arlene Stein (Founder, Terroir Hospitality)
Kamal Mouzawaq (Social Entrepreneur, Synergos and Founder, Souk el-Tayeb)
Jason Edwards (Birkbeck, University of London)
Saturday, 30 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Food and the National Question in Türkiye and the Levant
Moderator: Jason Edwards
Claudia Prieto-Piastro (King’s College), “Mizrahi Foodways in Israel: Identity and Belonging”
Burak Onaran (Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University), “The Making of a National Dessert: A History of Baklava during the Republican Period”
Levent Kömür (Former CEO of Mey-Diego Türkiye), “Rakı Culture in Contemporary Türkiye”
Daniel Monterescu (Central European University)
“Baladi Politics: The Social Life of an Untranslatable Agro-Culinary Category in Israel/Palestine”*
14.00-16.00 Transnational Food Citizenship: Models and Experiences
Moderator: Candan Türkkan
Ilaria Porciani (Università di Bologna), “National/Transnational: Research Problems and Methodological Issues”
Alejandro Colás (Birkbeck, University of London), “Transnational Food Citizenship: Influence, Participation, and Belonging in Comparative Perspective”
İsmail Ertürk (University of Manchester), “Present-Day Capitalism, Sustainability, and Food”
In line with CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project, the symposium focuses on ecologies, terroirs, and landscapes over state, nationality, and ethnicity as routes into understanding the transfer, adaptation, and appropriation of transnational foodways. It aims to underline the place of distinctive social metabolisms between people and the more-than-human in shaping conceptions of citizenship, belonging, and power about food and drink. The program will also address particular challenges to food citizenship arising from historical changes linked to human migrations and their associated habitats.
This free-admission program will be held in English and is open to everyone.
PROGRAM
Thursday, 28 November
Çamuralem Shop, Şişli, Istanbul
18.00–20.00 Symposium introduction showcasing CLIMAVORE x Jameel at the RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project and guided tasting
Friday, 29 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Changing Food Landscapes: Historical Perspectives
Moderator: İsmail Ertürk
Mike Berlin (Birkbeck, University of London), “Trade, Travel, and Transcultural Exchange: Ottoman and Levantine Foodways in Early Modern London”
Özge Samancı (Özyeğin University), “Culinary Heritage as a Common Denominator in Ottoman Territories: A Short Journey from Past to Present
Zafer Yenal (Sabancı University), “Fragmented Flavors: The Elusive Quest for a National Cuisine in Türkiye”
14.00-16.00 The Country in the City: Rural/Urban Metabolisms
Moderator: Özge Samancı
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University), “Alternatives in Crisis: The Remaking of the Rural in Türkiye”
Alon Schwabe (CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA), “Wallowing in Istanbul’s Postmining Wetland”
Michael Karam (Author), “Lebanese Wine: Unfulfilled Economic Potential, Social Cohesion, and Soft Power”
Zühre Aksoy (Boğaziçi University), “The Making of Rural-Urban Solidarity: Reflections on the Politics of Food in Contemporary Türkiye”
16.30-18.00 Food and the City: A Roundtable Discussion
Moderator: Alex Colás
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University)
Berkan Özyer (Program Director at Greenpeace Mediterranean, Türkiye)
Arlene Stein (Founder, Terroir Hospitality)
Kamal Mouzawaq (Social Entrepreneur, Synergos and Founder, Souk el-Tayeb)
Jason Edwards (Birkbeck, University of London)
Saturday, 30 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Food and the National Question in Türkiye and the Levant
Moderator: Jason Edwards
Claudia Prieto-Piastro (King’s College), “Mizrahi Foodways in Israel: Identity and Belonging”
Burak Onaran (Mimar Sinan Fine Arts University), “The Making of a National Dessert: A History of Baklava during the Republican Period”
Levent Kömür (Former CEO of Mey-Diego Türkiye), “Rakı Culture in Contemporary Türkiye”
Daniel Monterescu (Central European University)
“Baladi Politics: The Social Life of an Untranslatable Agro-Culinary Category in Israel/Palestine”*
14.00-16.00 Transnational Food Citizenship: Models and Experiences
Moderator: Candan Türkkan
Ilaria Porciani (Università di Bologna), “National/Transnational: Research Problems and Methodological Issues”
Alejandro Colás (Birkbeck, University of London), “Transnational Food Citizenship: Influence, Participation, and Belonging in Comparative Perspective”
İsmail Ertürk (University of Manchester), “Present-Day Capitalism, Sustainability, and Food”
*The presentation of the article co-authored with Rafi Grosglik and Ariel Handel
