Symposium:
Transnational Foodways and Food Citizenship Across Türkiye and the Levant
Salt Galata
November 28 – November 30, 2024
Hawkers in Adana
Photo: M. Erem Çalıkoğlu
Salt Research, M. Erem Çalıkoğlu Archive
Photo: M. Erem Çalıkoğlu
Salt Research, M. Erem Çalıkoğlu Archive
Workshop II-III
Salt is hosting an international symposium organized in collaboration between Birkbeck, University of London, Özyeğin University, and CLIMAVORE x Jameel at the Royal College of Art, which will explore the socio-political implications of new foodways in Türkiye and the Levant through the lens of transnational food citizenship.
Inspired by CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project, the symposium focuses on ecologies, terroirs, and landscapes over state, nationality, and ethnicity as routes into understanding the transfer, adaptation, and appropriation of transnational foodways. It aims to underline the place of distinctive social metabolisms between people and the more-than-human in shaping conceptions of citizenship, belonging, and power about food and drink. The program will also address particular challenges to food citizenship arising from historical changes linked to human migrations and their associated habitats.
This free-admission program will be held in English and is open to everyone.
PROGRAM
Thursday, 28 November
Çamuralem Shop, Şişli, Istanbul
18.00–20.00 Symposium introduction showcasing CLIMAVORE x Jameel at the RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project and guided tasting
Friday, 29 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Changing Food Landscapes: Historical Perspectives
Mike Berlin (Birkbeck, University of London), “Trade, Travel, and Transcultural Exchange: Ottoman and Levantine Foodways in Early Modern London”
Özge Samancı (Özyeğin University), “Culinary Heritage as a Common Denominator in Ottoman Territories: A Short Journey from Past to Present”
Ferda Erdinç (Researcher and Owner of Zencefil Beyoğlu), “Changing Culinary Landscape of Istanbul”
Derya Nizam Bilgiç (Izmir Economy University) & Mehmet Fatih Tatari (Bilkent University), “Pastoralism and Gastronomy in Historical Perspective”
14.00-16.00 The Country in the City: Rural/Urban Metabolisms
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University), “Alternatives in Crisis: The Remaking of the Rural in Türkiye”
Daniel Fernández Pascual (CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA), “Wallowing in Istanbul’s Postmining Wetland”
Atak Ayaz (Researcher, Geneva Graduate Institute), “New Generation Wine Producers in Türkiye”
Michael Karam (Author), “Lebanese Wine: Unfulfilled Economic Potential, Social Cohesion, and Soft Power”
16.30-18.00 Food and the City: A Roundtable Discussion
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University)
Berkan Özyer (Program Director at Greenpeace Mediterranean, Türkiye)
Arlene Stein (Founder, Terroir Hospitality)
Kamal Mouzawaq (Social Entrepreneur, Synergos and Founder, Souk el-Tayeb)
Jason Edwards (Birkbeck, University of London)
Meriç Öner (Curator and Researcher)
Saturday, 30 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Food and the National Question in Türkiye and the Levant
Claudia Prieto-Piastro (King’s College), “Mizrahi Foodways in Israel: Identity and Belonging”
Zafer Yenal (Boğaziçi University), “Fragmented Flavors: The Elusive Quest for a National Cuisine in Türkiye”
Levent Kömür (Former CEO of Mey-Diego Türkiye), “Rakı Culture in Contemporary Türkiye”
Daniel Monterescu (Central European University)
“Baladi Politics: The Social Life of an Untranslatable Agro-Culinary Category in Israel/Palestine”*
14.00-16.00 Transnational Food Citizenship: Models and Experiences
Ilaria Porciani (Università di Bologna), “National/Transnational: Research Problems and Methodological Issues”
Alejandro Colás (Birkbeck, University of London), “Transnational Food Citizenship: Influence, Participation, and Belonging in Comparative Perspective”
İsmail Ertürk (University of Manchester), “Present-Day Capitalism, Sustainability, and Food”
Joel Hart (Researcher and Writer), “From Adana to Cull Yaw Kofte: The Evolution of the Ocakbaşı and British-Turkish Identities in Northeast London”
Salt is hosting an international symposium organized in collaboration between Birkbeck, University of London, Özyeğin University, and CLIMAVORE x Jameel at the Royal College of Art, which will explore the socio-political implications of new foodways in Türkiye and the Levant through the lens of transnational food citizenship.
Inspired by CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project, the symposium focuses on ecologies, terroirs, and landscapes over state, nationality, and ethnicity as routes into understanding the transfer, adaptation, and appropriation of transnational foodways. It aims to underline the place of distinctive social metabolisms between people and the more-than-human in shaping conceptions of citizenship, belonging, and power about food and drink. The program will also address particular challenges to food citizenship arising from historical changes linked to human migrations and their associated habitats.
This free-admission program will be held in English and is open to everyone.
PROGRAM
Thursday, 28 November
Çamuralem Shop, Şişli, Istanbul
18.00–20.00 Symposium introduction showcasing CLIMAVORE x Jameel at the RCA’s “Water Buffalo Commons” project and guided tasting
Friday, 29 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Changing Food Landscapes: Historical Perspectives
Mike Berlin (Birkbeck, University of London), “Trade, Travel, and Transcultural Exchange: Ottoman and Levantine Foodways in Early Modern London”
Özge Samancı (Özyeğin University), “Culinary Heritage as a Common Denominator in Ottoman Territories: A Short Journey from Past to Present”
Ferda Erdinç (Researcher and Owner of Zencefil Beyoğlu), “Changing Culinary Landscape of Istanbul”
Derya Nizam Bilgiç (Izmir Economy University) & Mehmet Fatih Tatari (Bilkent University), “Pastoralism and Gastronomy in Historical Perspective”
14.00-16.00 The Country in the City: Rural/Urban Metabolisms
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University), “Alternatives in Crisis: The Remaking of the Rural in Türkiye”
Daniel Fernández Pascual (CLIMAVORE x Jameel at RCA), “Wallowing in Istanbul’s Postmining Wetland”
Atak Ayaz (Researcher, Geneva Graduate Institute), “New Generation Wine Producers in Türkiye”
Michael Karam (Author), “Lebanese Wine: Unfulfilled Economic Potential, Social Cohesion, and Soft Power”
16.30-18.00 Food and the City: A Roundtable Discussion
Candan Türkkan (Özyeğin University)
Berkan Özyer (Program Director at Greenpeace Mediterranean, Türkiye)
Arlene Stein (Founder, Terroir Hospitality)
Kamal Mouzawaq (Social Entrepreneur, Synergos and Founder, Souk el-Tayeb)
Jason Edwards (Birkbeck, University of London)
Meriç Öner (Curator and Researcher)
Saturday, 30 November
Workshop II-III, Salt Galata
11.00-13.00 Food and the National Question in Türkiye and the Levant
Claudia Prieto-Piastro (King’s College), “Mizrahi Foodways in Israel: Identity and Belonging”
Zafer Yenal (Boğaziçi University), “Fragmented Flavors: The Elusive Quest for a National Cuisine in Türkiye”
Levent Kömür (Former CEO of Mey-Diego Türkiye), “Rakı Culture in Contemporary Türkiye”
Daniel Monterescu (Central European University)
“Baladi Politics: The Social Life of an Untranslatable Agro-Culinary Category in Israel/Palestine”*
14.00-16.00 Transnational Food Citizenship: Models and Experiences
Ilaria Porciani (Università di Bologna), “National/Transnational: Research Problems and Methodological Issues”
Alejandro Colás (Birkbeck, University of London), “Transnational Food Citizenship: Influence, Participation, and Belonging in Comparative Perspective”
İsmail Ertürk (University of Manchester), “Present-Day Capitalism, Sustainability, and Food”
Joel Hart (Researcher and Writer), “From Adana to Cull Yaw Kofte: The Evolution of the Ocakbaşı and British-Turkish Identities in Northeast London”
*The presentation of the article co-authored with Rafi Grosglik and Ariel Handel
